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Good skin is the foundation that holds your makeup routine together. We’ve heard it time and time again from makeup artists and beauty influencers. The ethos holds true for mature skin, but your skin-prep routine has to change in order for your makeup to remain flawless. “In your 20s and 30s, your skin is naturally full of bounce, collagen and elasticity—it’s also highly pliable and better equipped to handle stressors. At 55, it’s all about customization,” says Stephanie Criscione, an aesthetician and the director of education & acne clinic at Face Reality Skincare. Having the right skin prep can go along way, whether you’re wearing a full face of glam for a special occasion or a natural every day look. Building a new routine isn’t challenging when you have the right guidance, such as the advice below.
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The Importance of Skin Prep
“Prepping mature skin before makeup makes the most significant difference in how fresh and smooth it looks,” says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. Hydrated skin is less likely to show wrinkles, which decreases the chances of your makeup settling or appearing cakey and dry. Think of it as the primer before you paint. Not only does it create a healthier canvas, but as Briceno notes, it could mean you’ll need less coverage in the long run. Beyond giving you a fresh start and healthy glow, Criscione, adds that good skin prep also improves the longevity of your look. “It may not be the most glamorous step, but it’s the one that determines whether your look reads radiant or splotchy by noon. Prepping the skin with a routine targeted to your custom signs of aging—think thoughtful layering to smooth, plump, hydrate, and prevent— isn’t just highly recommended, it’s essential,” she says.
Products to Skip
Harsh scrubs and physical exfoliants can cause irritation that translates through your makeup. According to Criscione, they can also scratch the skin’s surface, adding unnecessary texture. “Exfoliating toners act similarly, and can cause pilling under the makeup,” says Briceno. Moisturizers are an area that needs careful consideration. “Heavy oils underneath your foundation will almost always result in slippage,” says Criscione. “Anything that takes longer than 10 minutes to absorb is likely too heavy to wear,” says Briceno. The MUA also suggests skipping pore-filling and mattifying primers as they can emphasize texture on mature skin.
Products to Reach For
A good skin prep routine always starts with clean skin. The routine basics are simple: cleanse, exfoliate, hydrate, moisturize and protect. With mature skin, those steps can be amplified with targeted products. A gentle cleanser and chemical exfoliant are a go-to for keeping blemishes at bay and cleaning the skin without stripping it. “Antioxidant-rich products are ideal for mature skin, because they help brighten and defend against free radicals,” says Criscione. Hyaluronic acid or peptide serums are another key element that hydrates and plumps the skin. Whether in a moisturizer or serum, Briceno notes that products containing ceramides, peptides or niacinamide will always be beneficial. “The goal is to prep the skin so it feels nourished, smooth, and ready for makeup. So, layering lightweight formulas is essential for achieving supple skin where the products sink instead of sitting greasily on top of the skin. Just before applying SPF, don’t forget to give your under-eyes some extra TLC with an eye cream. “Skipping this step can cause makeup to settle into lines under and around the eyes,” he says. For matte makeup, he recommends using a gel or water-based primer before applying makeup. “It keeps the skin balanced and ensures matte formulas look smooth and natural,” he adds.
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